This small, stand-alone Kenner restaurant boasts handsome hardwood floors and a conservative design that gives it the feel of a rural, antique-filled bed and breakfast. It is, in fact, one of the more compelling Italian restaurants in the region. Ristorante da Piero's food is northern Italian, a rare find in red-gravy country, and the premium that chef-owner Piero Cenni places on the rustic flavors and bare-bones preparations of that region are equaled by the one he places on cooking from scratch -- pasta in particular, but also piadina, a wonderful flatbread indigenous to Italy's Romagna region, cured meats for the antipasti. I could go on. The roster of savory items is long and varied. The staff can be overbearing, but that's the worst of it. They're also knowledgeable about the food, some of which might be unfamiliar. And the all-Italian wine list is delightful. Reviewed on Feb. 13.
401 Williams Blvd., 469-8585. Lunch and dinner. $$$